The joy of autumn with Michel Roux Jr.
As the leaves turn golden and evenings draw in, it’s the perfect time of year to master the art of slowing down. In the kitchen, this could mean leaving a bubbling pot on the stove all afternoon, pickling a harvest time glut from the vegetable patch, or inviting friends over for a low effort Dishpatch dinner party. We asked Michel Roux Jr. his memories and tips on making the most of autumn.
What do you like best about autumn?
I have to say I really love to see the changing colours of the leaves, clichéd as it sounds, and with the start of a chill in the air, it’s a perfect season for walking. Of course, there are the wonderful seasonal ingredients that we can use in the kitchen: squashes, chestnuts, blackberries and elderberries, which stimulate our creativity after a few months of focussing on lighter dishes on our menus. It’s time to think about food that gives us a hug.
How do you slow down and begin to embrace the longer nights after a busy summer?
Slowing down is not necessarily something that I’m particularly good at, although I am trying! Our restaurants can be busier in the autumn than they are in the height of the summer, and I do think that the idea of sitting down together to eat a great meal when the evenings come in earlier is very appealing and comforting.
Do you have any childhood memories of the season, particularly around autumn food or ingredients?
When I was a child, my parents cooked for the Cazelet family at their estate Fairlawn, where we lived. As a family, we would forage regularly in the grounds on the estate during the Autumn for mushrooms, berries, and anything that was edible. We would fish too, and my Dad shot a lot of rabbits, so we had the most delicious rabbit stews at this time of year.
What are your favourite autumn dishes to cook?
I love to cook game over the autumn, particularly wild British venison, and I like to make hearty stews with other seasonal ingredients like chestnuts and wild mushrooms. And also use the beautiful home-grown apples and pears which make fabulous desserts, whether you’re baking or poaching (I love pears poached in red wine and cinnamon) or using them in warming puddings and pies.
What are the advantages of 'slow' techniques like pickling, braising or slow-cooking?
As well as the delicious results when we allow flavours to blend and develop more slowly whilst we cook, we all have to make efforts to reduce food waste. Whether it's preserving or pickling fresh produce at the height of the season so that we can enjoy it year-round, or choosing the cheaper cuts of meat that take longer to cook to make sure they are tender, paying more attention to making sure nothing goes to waste is everyone’s responsibility. The French are particularly good at this, always have been, and lots of my favourite classic dishes use the lesser cuts of meat, gently braised with seasonal vegetables, or cooked low and slow in the oven.
Do you have any autumn dinner party tips?
Make it easy for yourself! Get the starter and dessert ready the day before and serve the main course ‘family style’ by letting guests help themselves from a big dishes in the centre of the table. No need to fuss around with fancy plating, and you can spend more time enjoying yourself with your guests.